The Necklace: From Antiquity to the Present

Somewherebetweenjewelryandbodyadornment,thenecklaceoffersperhapsthemostexcitingdecorativepossibilitiesofanyarticleofpersonaldisplay.Whatiswornaroundtheneckcannotbeignored-unlikethemorediscreetcharmsofearandfingerdecoration-andthenecklaceasanemblemofwealth,statusandproclivityhasbeenshapedandreshapedthroughthecenturiesbysuccessivefashions,techniquesandmaterials,fromtheEgyptianbroadcollarandtheCelticgoldtorc,tothediamondsautoirsoftheI92OSandtheexuberantcreationsoftheliberatedsixties.Themajorpartofthisbookisdevotedtothenecklaceinthe19thand2othcenturies,asthesearethemostaccessibletothepotentialbuyerandcollector.Thereare,however,substantialsectionsontheearlierhistoryofthenecklaceform:thefigurativepectoralsofEgypt,GreekandRomanchainsandmedallions,theornamentalinspirationofRenaissanceart,theadventofthepearlnecklaceinthe17thcentury.TheI9thcenturythensawthenecklacecomeintoitsown.Itwasnowanessentialaccoutrementofeverywell-turned-outwoman,evenifthematerialsoffabricationweresometimesalittleextravagant,suchashumming-birdfeathers,andtigerclaws.Thiscenturyendedononeofthehighestnotesofcreativityinjewelrydesign:thesubtlerefinementsandinnovationsofLaliqueandhisfellowdesignersinthecurvilinearArtNouveaustyle.Thefinalsectiononthe2othcenturyuptoourowndayrevealschangesinthenecklaceforminresponsetorapidshiftsinsocialanddressfashionVeryshortorextremelylong,preciousornon-precious,wildexperimentortraditionallycrafted,thenecklacehasbeenanindispensableadjunctoffashionfromEdwardianglamourtotheArtDecotwenties,fromtheNewLooktoPowerDressing.Withanauthoritativetextbytwooftheworld'soutstandingexpertsonthesubject,superbillustrationsofhundredsofexamples,andanillustratedglossary,thiswillbeastandardworkformanyyearstocome.