tequila!: Distilling the Spirit of Mexico

7Italyhasgrappa,Russiahasvodka,Jamaicahasrum.Aroundtheworld,certaindrinks—especiallythoseoftheintoxicatingkind—aresynonymouswiththeirpeoplesandcultures.ForMexico,thisdrinkistequila.Formany,tequilacanconjureupscenesofbodyshotsonCancúnbarsandcoollygarnishedmargaritasonsandybeaches.ItspowerisequallystrongwithinMexico,thoughtherethedrinkismoreoftensippedratherthanshot,enjoyedcasuallyamongfriends,andusedtocommemorateoccasionsfromtheeverydaytothesacred.Despitethesecompetingimages,tequilaisuniversallyregardedasanenduringsymboloflomexicano.¡Tequila!DistillingtheSpiritofMexicotraceshowandwhytequilabecameandremainsMexico\'snationaldrinkandsymbol.StartinginMexico\'scolonialeraandtracingthedrink\'srisethroughthepresentday,MarieSaritaGaytánrevealstheformativerolesplayedbysomeunlikelycharacters.AlthoughthenotoriousPanchoVillawasateetotaler,hisimageisnowplasteredacrossthelabelsofallmanneroftequilaproducers—he\'seventhenamesakeofapopularbrand.Mexicanfilmsfromthe1940sand50s,especiallyWesternmelodramas,buoyedtequila\'spopularityathomewhileWorldWarIIcausedaspikeinsaleswithinthewhisky-starvedUnitedStates.Today,culturalattractionssuchasJoseCuervo\'sMundoCuervoandtheTequilaExpressletvisitorsinsertthemselvesintotheJaliscancountryside—nowaUNESCO-protectedWorldHeritageSite—andrelishinthenostalgiaofpre-industrialMexico.OurunderstandingoftequilaasMexico\'sspiritisnottheresultofsomenaturalaffinitybutratherthecumulativeeffectofU.S.-Mexicanrelations,technology,regulation,theheritageandtourismindustries,shiftinggenderroles,film,music,andliterature.Likeallstoriesaboutnationalsymbols,theriseoftequilaformsacomplicated,unexpected,andpoignanttale.Byunravelingitsinnerworkings,Gaytánencouragesustothinkcriticallyaboutnationalsymbolsmoregenerally,andthewaysinwhichtheybothrevealandconcealtotellastoryaboutaplace,aculture,andapeople.Inmanyways,thestoryoftequilaisthestoryofMexico.