内容简介
TherewillneverbeanothersurferlikeMiki'DaCat'Dora.FortwentyyearsthedashingandenigmaticdarkprinceofCaliforniasurfingdominatedtheMalibuwavesandhispeers'imaginations,blazingarebeltrailthatwouldinspiregenerationstocome.Butwhenthesportexplodedintothemainstreamandsurfingchangedforever,Dora'sparadisewaslost.Outragedatgridlockedswellsandascenethathadgrownevermorecommodified,DoraeventuallyfledMalibu,seekingemptywaves-andanonymity-beyondAmerica.He'dalsorunafoulofthelaw,andheledtheauthoritiesonaseven-yearchasearoundtheglobe.Afterhisarrestandimprisonment,hewouldreturntoAmericaonceinawhile,butneveragaintolive,andintheendonlytodie.DorawouldnevergiveupsearchingforthespiritoftheMalibuhe'dlost.Whereverhemadehishome-NewZealand,SouthAfrica,France-hepersonifiedtherebelheartofsurfingandbecamealegendinhisowntime.Thisbrilliantbiography,basedoninterviewswithmorethanthreehundredpeoplewhoknewDora,finallyuncoversthetruthaboutsurfing'smostseductiveandcomplicatedicon.Itisthestoryofoneman'sinsistenceonpersonalfreedom-andtherewardsandthecoststhatbrings.Itisalsoastoryofinnocencelost,ofthegrowthandcommercializationoftheCalifornialifestyle.Loner.Rebel.Wanderer.Legend.ThelifeofMikiDoraisthegreatestsurfstorynevertold.